The Gun Thread

[Edward429451]

1) young: In the Navy, shot a rifle in target practice once, the had to dismantle, clean it, and uh-huh, had to re - assemble it.

2) middle-age: Went on a men's retreat in the Rockies and shot a 38 (I think) at a tree branch - couldn't hear very well for two or three days after that...

3) OLD-age: Now, I just simply 'train' (for spiritual warfare) With A Sword that is Way Better than any gun! ♫ ↑

Amen.

My dad had an AR15 A1 back in those days and he used to do that stuff to us boys too. I think all he cleaned was his combat commander and his mdl 29, we cleaned all the rifles and all our guns too. You do learn it that way!.

 

[HealthAndHappiness]

ANNOUNCEMENT:

New 2A Platform !!!
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> Pepperbox TV <
(Bookmark ya all)
°°°°°°°/\°°°°°°°

The answer to YouTube Censorship!

 

[HealthAndHappiness]

CORRECTION:

Oh Crumbs!, This was promoted by Pew Vew and I went to the homepage.
I decided to post above before continuing to learn that there's an $8 pay wall membership.
Sorry guys and gals.
Got my hopes up before taking it for a test run.
I will pay membership here BEFORE another platform when I have $ to do so.

If anyone does the trial membership, please let us know what you think.

 

[Edward429451]

ANNOUNCEMENT:

New 2A Platform !!!
°°°°°°°\/°°°°°°°
> Pepperbox TV <
(Bookmark ya all)
°°°°°°°/\°°°°°°°

The answer to YouTube Censorship!

I couldn't watch anything, they kept diverting me to, give us $8 a month and I'm gold. I can't afford $8 a month. Maybe you could post a video or three from there to give us a feel for it?

It was a nice idea for sure.

Oh! You don't even have a membership there! Lol, still would have been nice!

 

[HealthAndHappiness]

NOT A Good Idea!

 

[HealthAndHappiness]

I couldn't watch anything, they kept diverting me to, give us $8 a month and I'm gold. I can't afford $8 a month. Maybe you could post a video or three from there to give us a feel for it?

It was a nice idea for sure.

Oh! You don't even have a membership there! Lol, still would have been nice!

Sorry about that.
I announced it In my next post ASAP, but past the time limit to delete.

 

[HealthAndHappiness]

You Canadians will like this

Merican Shoppin'!


What's nice is even idiots have a good options.

 

[Squigglylines]

i tried that on a couple of my single actions and I can already tell that it isn't safe for me to shoot thumb forward. That'd be asking for a sore finger, lol. You know what? I've never owned a 357 mag. I've owned 38's but no 3 5 7's. You see what happened to me is my dad was into guns and loading his own ammo and casting his own bullets from lead. I really liked that 6" K-38 that he owned, and then when Dirty Harry came out my dad had the first model 29 on the block! I liked shooting that 44 mag too, it was fun. But when I grew up a little and wanted my own 44 mag, I couldn't afford a S&W. So I had to scout around and find a used ruger redhawk. The underdog back then, lol! I learned to love that gun! I also have a Ruger SBH. Also used and it came to me with the finish mostly gone. But it shoot real good. it loves fat heavy bullets.

lol, You gotta remember that the .45 in CFDA is using a case with the primer punched out and drilled oversize for a 209 shotgun primer to fit in. There's a whole lot of other things though but if you can time a single action it works. An old school Single action revolver will snap the hand where the spring fits in if you fan it or even over X amounts of drawing it and bringing the hammer back that quick. The cylinder will begin to drop the bolt too soon and begin to peen a dent in it and round over the until the revolver is out of time. The trigger/bolt spring over time will break in half.

The work around is this. If it's an open frame(1860,51 ect.) I would always pull the pin in the Cylinder base pin and shim it and fit the wedge first. Everyone times a SA to their liking but to me I like mine to hammer all the way back until the back part of the hammer just touches the strap around the grip. The grips incorrect on Pietta's and so I like to take the hand grip down more like the original colts so I do that next. A Ruger hand spring is better than the original Colt but you have to drill out the frame for the Ruger plunger and spring,snap off the Colt type spring and solder it. The cylinder's problem is that drawing it fast and cocking it makes the bolt hit the side of the frame with force as it spins and then comes to a stop. A bolt block which is a small piece of brass or steel placed under the trigger bolt spring gives it a larger profile to hit against(refereed to as a bolt block). When the cylinder spins and then stops when the bolt drops and locks it if the hammer can go back any farther then the hand will continue going up and will break over time. I pull the action(hammer) back until it stops and with the gripps(wood grip) off/out drill a hole and thread it for an Allen screw and adjust it up until it stops the hammer from traveling any farther back. This is called an "action stop" which causes the action travel from continuing to cause the hand to travel up into the cylinder ratchet notch until it breaks. The peen mark it makes between the cylinder/bolt notches I use as a reference mark and use a Dremel to slope the bolt drop notch to the notch it's self and then fit the bolt to so it fits deeper into the notch and give it a better positive lock. Because of this the hand usually needs to be stretched longer(peened) so I do it last. There's way too much to say in one post about the other mods but you end up with a pistol you can really abuse without it breaking like the original(action in the 1873 is the same just a closed frame). In the videos some are slow but those firing from the top of the holster(without extending their arm) well you'll see the result.

 

[Edward429451]

lol, You gotta remember that the .45 in CFDA is using a case with the primer punched out and drilled oversize for a 209 shotgun primer to fit in. There's a whole lot of other things though but if you can time a single action it works. An old school Single action revolver will snap the hand where the spring fits in if you fan it or even over X amounts of drawing it and bringing the hammer back that quick. The cylinder will begin to drop the bolt too soon and begin to peen a dent in it and round over the until the revolver is out of time. The trigger/bolt spring over time will break in half.

The work around is this. If it's an open frame(1860,51 ect.) I would always pull the pin in the Cylinder base pin and shim it and fit the wedge first. Everyone times a SA to their liking but to me I like mine to hammer all the way back until the back part of the hammer just touches the strap around the grip. The grips incorrect on Pietta's and so I like to take the hand grip down more like the original colts so I do that next. A Ruger hand spring is better than the original Colt but you have to drill out the frame for the Ruger plunger and spring,snap off the Colt type spring and solder it. The cylinder's problem is that drawing it fast and cocking it makes the bolt hit the side of the frame with force as it spins and then comes to a stop. A bolt block which is a small piece of brass or steel placed under the trigger bolt spring gives it a larger profile to hit against(refereed to as a bolt block). When the cylinder spins and then stops when the bolt drops and locks it if the hammer can go back any farther then the hand will continue going up and will break over time. I pull the action(hammer) back until it stops and with the gripps(wood grip) off/out drill a hole and thread it for an Allen screw and adjust it up until it stops the hammer from traveling any farther back. This is called an "action stop" which causes the action travel from continuing to cause the hand to travel up into the cylinder ratchet notch until it breaks. The peen mark it makes between the cylinder/bolt notches I use as a reference mark and use a Dremel to slope the bolt drop notch to the notch it's self and then fit the bolt to so it fits deeper into the notch and give it a better positive lock. Because of this the hand usually needs to be stretched longer(peened) so I do it last. There's way too much to say in one post about the other mods but you end up with a pistol you can really abuse without it breaking like the original(action in the 1873 is the same just a closed frame). In the videos some are slow but those firing from the top of the holster(without extending their arm) well you'll see the result.

Oh that's right, I remember watching some of those videos before. I've never done it before so I didn't remember to drill out my cases for SG primers.

I have an 1860 and it wont fan at all. What am I doing wrong? I tried to fan it with my 1860 but it refused to be fanned!

 

[Edward429451]

lol, You gotta remember that the .45 in CFDA is using a case with the primer punched out and drilled oversize for a 209 shotgun primer to fit in. There's a whole lot of other things though but if you can time a single action it works. An old school Single action revolver will snap the hand where the spring fits in if you fan it or even over X amounts of drawing it and bringing the hammer back that quick. The cylinder will begin to drop the bolt too soon and begin to peen a dent in it and round over the until the revolver is out of time. The trigger/bolt spring over time will break in half.

The work around is this. If it's an open frame(1860,51 ect.) I would always pull the pin in the Cylinder base pin and shim it and fit the wedge first. Everyone times a SA to their liking but to me I like mine to hammer all the way back until the back part of the hammer just touches the strap around the grip. The grips incorrect on Pietta's and so I like to take the hand grip down more like the original colts so I do that next. A Ruger hand spring is better than the original Colt but you have to drill out the frame for the Ruger plunger and spring,snap off the Colt type spring and solder it. The cylinder's problem is that drawing it fast and cocking it makes the bolt hit the side of the frame with force as it spins and then comes to a stop. A bolt block which is a small piece of brass or steel placed under the trigger bolt spring gives it a larger profile to hit against(refereed to as a bolt block). When the cylinder spins and then stops when the bolt drops and locks it if the hammer can go back any farther then the hand will continue going up and will break over time. I pull the action(hammer) back until it stops and with the gripps(wood grip) off/out drill a hole and thread it for an Allen screw and adjust it up until it stops the hammer from traveling any farther back. This is called an "action stop" which causes the action travel from continuing to cause the hand to travel up into the cylinder ratchet notch until it breaks. The peen mark it makes between the cylinder/bolt notches I use as a reference mark and use a Dremel to slope the bolt drop notch to the notch it's self and then fit the bolt to so it fits deeper into the notch and give it a better positive lock. Because of this the hand usually needs to be stretched longer(peened) so I do it last. There's way too much to say in one post about the other mods but you end up with a pistol you can really abuse without it breaking like the original(action in the 1873 is the same just a closed frame). In the videos some are slow but those firing from the top of the holster(without extending their arm) well you'll see the result.

How can those guys shoot with thumb forward to point shoot when they need that thumb to cock the hammer?!

 

[hornetguy]

lol, You gotta remember that the .45 in CFDA is using a case with the primer punched out and drilled oversize for a 209 shotgun primer to fit in. There's a whole lot of other things though but if you can time a single action it works. An old school Single action revolver will snap the hand where the spring fits in if you fan it or even over X amounts of drawing it and bringing the hammer back that quick. The cylinder will begin to drop the bolt too soon and begin to peen a dent in it and round over the until the revolver is out of time. The trigger/bolt spring over time will break in half.

The work around is this. If it's an open frame(1860,51 ect.) I would always pull the pin in the Cylinder base pin and shim it and fit the wedge first. Everyone times a SA to their liking but to me I like mine to hammer all the way back until the back part of the hammer just touches the strap around the grip. The grips incorrect on Pietta's and so I like to take the hand grip down more like the original colts so I do that next. A Ruger hand spring is better than the original Colt but you have to drill out the frame for the Ruger plunger and spring,snap off the Colt type spring and solder it. The cylinder's problem is that drawing it fast and cocking it makes the bolt hit the side of the frame with force as it spins and then comes to a stop. A bolt block which is a small piece of brass or steel placed under the trigger bolt spring gives it a larger profile to hit against(refereed to as a bolt block). When the cylinder spins and then stops when the bolt drops and locks it if the hammer can go back any farther then the hand will continue going up and will break over time. I pull the action(hammer) back until it stops and with the gripps(wood grip) off/out drill a hole and thread it for an Allen screw and adjust it up until it stops the hammer from traveling any farther back. This is called an "action stop" which causes the action travel from continuing to cause the hand to travel up into the cylinder ratchet notch until it breaks. The peen mark it makes between the cylinder/bolt notches I use as a reference mark and use a Dremel to slope the bolt drop notch to the notch it's self and then fit the bolt to so it fits deeper into the notch and give it a better positive lock. Because of this the hand usually needs to be stretched longer(peened) so I do it last. There's way too much to say in one post about the other mods but you end up with a pistol you can really abuse without it breaking like the original(action in the 1873 is the same just a closed frame). In the videos some are slow but those firing from the top of the holster(without extending their arm) well you'll see the result.

I guess those folks have fun with that, but all that "falling over backward" shooting is just silly, IMHO. It's ok for playing a game, but if you want to watch true fast draw, real world shooting, try to find some old videos of Bill Jordan and his shooting exhibitions. There are several others who were incredibly fast, as well, without all the gyrations, rocking backwards, etc... Bill Jordan would balance a ping pong ball on the back of his hand, above his holster, then draw and fire, hitting the target, and the ping pong ball would be in his holster....
If you want to see incredibly fast shooting, goober Jerry Miculek, and watch his videos of unbelievably fast shooting with a revolver. 6 shots, reload, and 6 more shots in under 3 seconds? Unreal....

 

[Edward429451]

I guess those folks have fun with that, but all that "falling over backward" shooting is just silly, IMHO. It's ok for playing a game, but if you want to watch true fast draw, real world shooting, try to find some old videos of Bill Jordan and his shooting exhibitions. There are several others who were incredibly fast, as well, without all the gyrations, rocking backwards, etc... Bill Jordan would balance a ping pong ball on the back of his hand, above his holster, then draw and fire, hitting the target, and the ping pong ball would be in his holster....
If you want to see incredibly fast shooting, goober Jerry Miculek, and watch his videos of unbelievably fast shooting with a revolver. 6 shots, reload, and 6 more shots in under 3 seconds? Unreal....

But that's what CFDA stands for: Cowboy Fast Dance Association, so they gotta learn the dance! I've seen Jerry Miculek shoot before (in videos!) and he is fast. And he dont use wax bullets! He's the real deal.

But all of us know that the fastest draw is to have your hand on your gun before the action starts anyway so I'm sure Cowboy Fast Dance is fun in it's own right. When I was coming up everything way about the steel challenge. Then that got to be all about the race guns and all those single actions were $250 each for a uncanny long time, so they said we need a ned game with a cheaper gun and tada Fast Dance was born!

Now try to find a SBH for 250, Ha!

 

[Edward429451]

You sure do see lots of girls on that shooting line and that's cool because most women who can shoot, can shoot!

And i bet there's not a single Transformer among them! Invade a sporting event pretending to be women that is an event where everyone is walking around with guns?! Apparently, even transformers are that smart, to stay away! Bwahahaha!

 

[hornetguy]

But all of us know that the fastest draw is to have your hand on your gun before the action starts anyway

yep..... If I suspect I'm about to be "accosted"... this is my preferred method of fast draw.... have it in my hand already.... because like Raylan Givens said.... "a lot of things can go wrong in a draw...."

 

[Edward429451]

yep..... If I suspect I'm about to be "accosted"... this is my preferred method of fast draw.... have it in my hand already.... because like Raylan Givens said.... "a lot of things can go wrong in a draw...."

View attachment 280253

I used that in real life before! Lol. Well, except that I colt 45 govt mdl and I went to low ready when a dog was charging me to attack me. I was at low ready before he reached my line in the sand, and when he reached it I gave him a single warning shot right in front of him into the grass. didn't me displaying a weapon to the dog say to it, I'm your Huckleberry? I guess the dog don't speak cowboy? Lol

It was just like in the cartoons, four paws in the air scrambling backward trying to go home suddenly. It was like he changed his mind about attacking me, lol! You see this dog had attacked me one time when I didnt have a 45 with me, I had a cup of coffee only! I splashed him with hot coffee and still had to do a war dance in front of him and he almost didnt back down. Close to home, so no more walking to the friends house unarmed around the comer anymore. Next time I was armed when I went to visit my friend around the corner! The 2nd time you are sort of expecting it to happen so say hello yo Doc, lol. . I was nice to that dog and gave him a chance with a warning shot that the police frown on, but still, that's somebody's dog man, I don't want to shoot it unless the dog forces me to. Know what I mean? And it worked beautifully, the owner of the dog heard the shot and the next day that dog had a brand new chain and tie out! Good to know he appreciated me not killing his dog.

My friend was with me that time and he said, I never saw someone draw a gun so fast, it was like it grew in your hand! He thoroughly enjoyed it!

 

[Squigglylines]

Oh that's right, I remember watching some of those videos before. I've never done it before so I didn't remember to drill out my cases for SG primers.

I have an 1860 and it wont fan at all. What am I doing wrong? I tried to fan it with my 1860 but it refused to be fanned!

View attachment 280244

I wouldn't suggest fanning it in the first place,some do try but the point I was intending is that after an action stop mod it wont destroy the hand where the spring is(Colt type revolvers).

 

[Edward429451]

You gotta remember that the .45 in CFDA is using a case with the primer punched out and drilled oversize for a 209 shotgun primer to fit in.

I used to reload for 12 GA along with everything else. I even still have a supply of 209's and a slug mould! And all sorts of reloading components for the slugs and regular shells. I was consolidating my reloading gear and the 12ga press did not make the cut! Though I still have the mould and wads n stuff. I had a slug recipe that was 10X more accurate the Rem Sluggers ever were! I could hit a paper plate (9") at 100 yds off hand with an 870 and 18" police trade in barrel with that load with Unique powder.

So when you talk about working the brass by drilling it for a 209...It makes me wonder how they do it, what size and so forth.

 

[Squigglylines]

How can those guys shoot with thumb forward to point shoot when they need that thumb to cock the hammer?!

They never put the part of their thumb on the hammer where their thumb print is. There are three bone segments in our thumbs the hammer is on the second segment(middle part of the thumb) and the part where their thumbprint is is to the left of the hammer on the back of the frame.

 

[Edward429451]

I wouldn't suggest fanning it in the first place,some do try but the point I was intending is that after an action stop mod it wont destroy the hand where the spring is(Colt type revolvers).

You missed the joke! You didn't see it and put it together, lol!

 

[Edward429451]

They never put the part of their thumb on the hammer where their thumb print is. There are three bone segments in our thumbs the hammer is on the second segment(middle part of the thumb) and the part where their thumbprint is is to the left of the hammer on the back of the frame.

They still have to cock it, and in CFDA their times are averaging in the 1/3 of a second range. That's a lot to do with the thumb in that time period. They can't do that in CFDA and have a hope of winning., there just aint time.