The Gun Thread

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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
do you completely disassemble them for cleaning each time? Some do, I don't, toying with the idea of spraying a good foam cleaner in prior to shooting, and then spraying the internals with good old brake cleaner when done, then some spray lube. I have removed the wood and boiled them, that is what happened in the civil war.
No not every time. Not even every other time. Just when the action gets gummy.
 

shittim

Senior Member
Dec 16, 2016
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Olive oil was the original lube, one was to sit a bottle of it in the window and turn it once a month or so, after a year anything that settled to the bottom was not retained, that was the gun oil. I suppose after boiling them at night after combat they were allowed to dry and the re lubed. Some say olive oil itself will gum up after a while.
Ballistol was originally developed by a German firm and I believe during the black powder age, Hickok45 you tube channel once said it would neutralize the corrosive effect of black powder, not positive on that though he does know a LOT of stuff.
 
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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
When I do, I clean by dropping everything except the wood in a pot of water that was brought to a boil and then removed from the heat. I have an old dutch oven that I use. Ad I remove each part I wipe it spotless clean. Then I use no salt Crisco and oil each piece individually, some folks use bore butter which I also like but hate the smell. Then I reassemble and put a bit of extra grease in the action before I close it up.
 
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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
Olive oil was the original lube, one was to sit a bottle of it in the window and turn it once a month or so, after a year anything that settled to the bottom was not retained, that was the gun oil. I suppose after boiling them at night after combat they were allowed to dry and the re lubed. Some say olive oil itself will gum up after a while.
Ballistol was originally developed by a German firm and I believe during the black powder age, Hickok45 you tube channel once said it would neutralize the corrosive effect of black powder, not positive on that though he does know a LOT of stuff.
Back in the old pioneer and old west days they used everything from animal lard to concoctions of lard bees wax, and any other natural oils they could get.
 
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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
What works on black powder and what works on modern smokeless are two different things. Petroleum products will not take off black powder. Petro products will gum up black powder real bad.
 
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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
I like the guy's line of thinking in the article. I do some of the things he says don't and I don't do some of the things he says to do.
I don't use any grease under or over the ball. I use about 25 grain in my 44.
I only use the boiling water cleaning method when my action gets gummy, which is after many shooting excursions. I do just use oil for cleaning between each shooting excursion otherwise. Just and oily patch made from an old cotton rag.
If I am hunting and weather is damp, I use a bees wax/ oil mixture over the ball to seal out moisture. (Bees wax and Crisco 50/50 mix approximately) so it is firm by plyable, and sticks to the cylinder walls.
While shooting info use a bit of greese on a patch and swab the bore about every 5 or six reloads. I never get much fouling out usually just enough to turn a white patch black, but not enough to feel greasy or gummy or gritty.
My first round out of the barrel each excursion, I will put a bit of grease on top of the first ball. I use a slightly over sized ball so that the cylinder shaves off a tiny little ring off. This does allow better contact with the rifling in the barrel, and I think is more accurate.
 

shittim

Senior Member
Dec 16, 2016
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I like the idea of chamfering the cylinder and thus swaging the ball slightly for a better gas seal.
 
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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
I like the idea of chamfering the cylinder and thus swaging the ball slightly for a better gas seal.
If you chamfer be careful to do an even job. The best way I can think of would be to use a ball type die grinder bit .750" minimal for a 44, in a drill press on slow speed. Clamp the cylinder in place, line up on a dry run and then go slow.
 

shittim

Senior Member
Dec 16, 2016
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here is Wild Bill's 1851 navy, although when he was killed he was carrying a No.2 S&W in either 32 or 36 cal.
 

shittim

Senior Member
Dec 16, 2016
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Just found this fun video on shooting cap and ball revolvers
 
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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
Cool, I just don't have the and patience for paper cartridges. That is a level of tedious that is beyond me.
 

shittim

Senior Member
Dec 16, 2016
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See if there is a time in your life it may appeal, we winter here and need to stay connected with our warm weather sport! it is surprising how you can bang out an afternoons worth shooting pretty quick, lotsa creative ways.
best wishes
 

shittim

Senior Member
Dec 16, 2016
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9mm is still nearly impossible to find at a reasonable price,i'm getting set up to reload 9mm, anyone else? How are you doing for projectiles? Anyone started molding their own?
 
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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
9mm is pretty reasonable here and fairly readily available. I reload 45 colt and 38 special, and 357.
 

shittim

Senior Member
Dec 16, 2016
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please refresh me, I am in the midwest, where is "here"?
 

shittim

Senior Member
Dec 16, 2016
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I have lead and a lead pot, and have cast before, thinking of powder coating baking rather than lube.
 
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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
That's an interesting idea. I have some epoxy coated colt 45 leads. They seem ok.
 
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Blackpowderduelist

Guest
I have a family in Wisconsin and Illinois, and an old friend in Missouri
And a great friend in Minnesota, I need to take a road trip. I wish I had the money and time.