Dive headfirst into the wave, you might be able to get to the surface and breath without being dragged into land and through trees and cars. You would have to be a very good swimmer because it would then be tough to swim back to land through all the debris, still it is your only chance once you are down on the beach.I saw a video of one guy standing on the bay bottom. A wave of white foam that was at least 20 feet high, a literal wall of water, may have been going 100 miles an hour when it hit him. He just stood there, watching it come. At the last second, he turned his back to it. He didn't seem afraid. I don't think he understood what was about to happen to him. It killed him.
It reminds me of today.